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Triumph Brass Bushings5/2/2021
Cheaper U Joints fail frequently by various accounts on the forums. I decided not to try various tricks people use to change them in place.This resulted in the holes on the yoke on the axle getting pounded and too large, and needing a replacement yoke.
When I looked into that, the price was such that I may as well get a rebuilt axle, which I did from Axleworks in South Carolina. Had Rear Axles Rebuilt: both sides from Axle Works in Archdale, North Carolina. Pulling the hubs with a special tool was more than I wanted to take on. They did a quick turnaround for me, price,shipping was reasonable. All new bushings from Moss Motors, including the Spring Bushing. I put anti-seize on all bolts and bushings. New shocks from Spitbits, the inexpensive ones. They would not fit in the mount at the top, so I used the rubber ones for the top mount. ![]() Paint stripped the vertical link arms and drums to bare metal. Triumph Brass Bushings Drivers Side IOn the drivers side I used rust converter, and caliper paint. No special reason I did it differently other than I worked on them 6 months apart, and had more time for the passenger side. For the drums I used a wire wheel, Marine CleanMetal Prep from the POR 15 kit, but then did not use POR15 due to high temps, but rather caliper paint. I left the circular areas on the vertical link where the trunnion bushing fits bare metal, and put some grease on them. Installed Vertical Link on Axle: needed a little homemade special tool to spread the link 9. Learned a trick use bailing wire to hold the springs on one side while you get the spring on the second side. Torque specifications used the specs here. Note that you should torque the spring bush bolt with the weight on the tires, not in the air. The passenger side took me about 10 hours, including stripping to bare metal, POR15, etc. Insert the bolt in the upper holes of the Vertical Link, and expand them so that the link opens wider. I could move the steering wheel three or four inches side to side without changing direction. ![]() I saw that the rubber mounting bushes, part 60 below (from the Moss website), were moving (in line with the steering rack) in the U Clamp, part 59. I took them off, and they didnt look bad, but I replaced them with the Urethane Performance replacement part, 20 at Moss. I did not need to jack up the car or anything, just laid on my back and reached up under to remove the two nuts on each side. A screwdriver was sufficient to push the old rubber mount out. The mounting blocks are slit so you can put them on by opening the slit and pushing them on the rack, you dont have to take anything else apart but the two nuts. Cheaper U Joints fail frequently by various accounts on the forums. I decided not to try various tricks people use to change them in place.
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